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Bali's Arts and Crafts
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Introduction
Until this century
Balinese artists produced work (paintings, stone & wood
carving etc.) under the patronage of wealthy kings or as gifts to
decorate the local temple. As such the artists were only doing
their part as a member of the community and therefore never gave
much thought to be recognized for their efforts by signing their
work. In addition, art had to follow very stringent guidelines so
whilst the quality may have varied the content was quite standard.
It wasn't until the arrival of European artists that Balinese
artists learned to express themselves individually and then began
signing their work.
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Cloth &
Textiles Bali has basically 3
indigenous textiles: Endek, Gringsing and Tenun Ikat. That being
said most of the swaths of cloth and fancy printed apparel on sale
in Bali are really Batik and native to Java, not Bali. FYI, the
intricate designs on Batik cloth are made by applying wax to the
fabric prior to dying each time another color is added.
Inasmuch as Endek is really only popular with the Balinese
it is not mass produced - so it is quite safe to say that any
endek you purchase will have been hand made. It is a laborious
affair. The horizontal threads are laid out and pre dyed with a
desired pattern in a tie dye type of operation ( the fabric may be
dyed several times with different colors ). Once dyed the threads
are dried then woven into the vertical threads on the loom. These
vertical threads are only one color -usually black. It is not
until the weaving is complete that one knows for sure the quality
and clarity of the designer's work. This is just a rough idea how
the process works, it's actually much more complicated than this
with several people - men included - to make just one bolt of
cloth. The finished bolt is about 20 feet long by 3.5 feet wide.
It takes about 10 days just to weave one bolt of cloth - so think
of the value !
Now, if you think
that's tricky try it with both the vertical and horizontal threads
at the same time. Imagine a weaver must come up with a design then
"tye dye" both the horizontal and vertical threads separately 2-3
times depending on the number of colors used. Even the slightest
miscalculation when dying the yarn or a mistake by the weaver and
months of work are lost. This is basically how Gringsing is
produced in the Balinese Village of Tenganan - one of two or three
places in the entire world capable of producing this extraordinary
textile. As mentioned many times in Island-Wave.com this is one of
the best souvenirs available to visitors to Bali.
The third cloth, tenun ikat is also popular in Bali. Like
endek the horizontal threads are dyed and woven into a solid
vertical thread on the loom. The difference is that the patterns
are solid colored blocks or simple crossing patterns. This cloth
is also mostly produced by hand and is very popular in fashionable
circles for clothing, home furnishings and accessories.
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Paintings
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Traditional
Kamasan Art This is the most
traditional of all Balinese paintings. Originating in the
Klungkung Regency during the reign Kingdom of Gelgel it was widely
admired throughout Bali. The artists specializing in this art form
are known as "Sangging". In days gone by these Snagging artists
would often be commissioned to travel to other kingdoms to
decorate a palace or temple with this style of painting.
Kamasan is easily distinguished in the market. The paint
color is predominately orange (sometimes blue) and the theme
always depicts Hindu epics and are based on the Javanese Wayang
characters. The characters are divided into two camps: Good, (
those with refined facial features and slim bodies) and Evil,
(those with distorted faces, red color and distended bodies). The
painting is a large canvas divided up into panels with each panel
telling the story of a well known adventure. Years ago Kamasan art
was placed primarily in temples as wall hangings, used as
curtains, or as banners during festivals. (Go to the Kerta Goa
Hall of Justice in Klungkung to see fine examples of this style).
The paintings are used much the same way today with restaurants
now often using the canvas for menu covers.
Kamasan still today has
Sangging artists dedicated to painting in the traditional Kamasan
style. Easily the best known Kamasan artist is I Nyoman Mandra who
has his own school, and does restoration work. Bpk. Mandra can be
found in Klungkung.
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Modern Art
As mentioned earlier starting this century Balinese artists
came under more direct influence of Western artists with the
arrival of European artists. The most famous of these were German,
Walter Spies and Dutchman, Rudolf Bonnet. These two painters
taught the Balinese painters new, more realistic and
expressionistic art - scenes from every day life, landscapes and
the like - which now dominates the paintings produced on Bali.
Later on and together with local artist Gede Agung Sukawati the
Pitamaha Painters Association was established. Styles which sprang
from this effort are briefly described below. When looking to buy
keep in mind that prices vary widely depending on the size and the
amount and clarity of detail.
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Batuan These large paintings
are easily identified because every square inch of the canvas is
filled with tiny figures going about life's daily activities (some
quite graphic if you look hard enough). Usually bright colored,
these paintings seem to be getting funnier and funnier (or
sarcastic depending on your view of video camera tourists being
painted into village life) as the years go by.
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Keliki Keliki paintings are
generally the very small paintings you see hanging on pillars and
odd spaces in different shops. These too are crammed with little
images but look closely though and you will see that the subject
matter is very different - usually the subject is the supernatural
with fantastically detailed demons.
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Pengosekan These are the bird,
flower and butterfly paintings you see all over. The amount of
detail and correct proportion determine the price but works of the
best (i.e. I Made Supartha commands up to US$ 5,000 for a good
sized painting).
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Ubud With highly stylized
human features -strong lines, long necks, proud posture, and the
like identify these paintings to have been influenced by Walter
Spies. The paintings are usually large and colorful without being
bright. Such artists as Dewa Putu Bedil are always in demand and
you may well have to commission the best and wait quite some time
before you own one of this style.
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Modern Nowadays there are many
Balinese and Indonesian artists who practice what can best be
described as Modern Art. Some like Made Winata, Krijono, and Joko
amongst others have achieved a great deal of commercial success
combining their Indonesian perspective with abstract figures and
new colors.
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The Keris These daggers with
their wavy blades are famous the world over. Going back as far as
Hindu Javanese of Majapahit in the 13th century, these beautiful
daggers are much more than a weapon - they are a revered symbol of
the man who owns it and each Keris is deeply believed to have a
life and spirit of its own. Indeed there are stories of kings, too
busy with affairs of the palace to attend their own weddings,
letting the Keris stand in as the groom. And not just any will
Keris will do, a Keris must be matched spiritually to its owner to
protect him from harm.
Since the Keris is
found in many parts of Indonesia, there are correspondingly many
different styles of blades, handles and sheaths - none any better
than another just personal preference. In Bali the Keris is
usually quite large and has a wavy double edged blade ( be careful
when you unsheathe it, it's sharp! ) with an ornately carved
handle (or hilt) representing one of the gods from the Ramayana
epic. Also with the Balinese Keris the area connecting the blade
to the handle is embedded with semi precious stones as is the
sheath. As a comparison, the Keris from Java are usually smaller
and less presumptuous and the Keris from North Sumatra are usually
with straight, one sided blades.
An old, valuable Keris
can easily fetch US$ 5,000. but an average Keris is about US$ 200
- US$ 500. When buying, attention to detail is everything. Look
closely at the area that joins the blade to the handle, does the
handle look new and the blade old?, is the blade intricately
forged? etc.
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Masks Practically from the
time you step off the plane you will see masks of different sizes,
shapes and colors. Whilst these days many masks are produced
solely as tourist souvenirs not to take masks seriously in Bali
would be a mistake. When a Westerner dons a mask at a party it is
to pretend he is someone else. For Indonesians - especially
Balinese to don a mask is to begin living the life of the mask.
Masks used in performances of sacred dances are sacred and as such
revered and kept so in temples. You will not find such masks
sitting idly in a store waiting to be purchased. That being said,
there are still fine masks - all works of art - that are no longer
used available for sale (for a price).
Without going too
deeply into (there are entire books devoted to the subject) most
masks you will see are representations of Ramayana Epic. The masks
with refined features such as a short pointed nose and white face
represent Noblemen, while those with garish features - red faces
with bulbous noses and missing teeth represent buffoons, idiots,
liars and cheats. If you look closely at the eyes you will be able
to see Chinese characters as well - they are the ones with the
thinner eyes.
Lastly, today masks are
being made in modern shapes like a crescent moons and painted
abstract colors but these are really only for souvenirs and
decoration. A fine mask properly displayed and well lit adds a lot
to any home or office. Most of the best masks can be found in the
village of Mas.
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Stone Carving Driving around Bali it
would difficult not to be impressed with the majesty of the
intricate stone carvings that adorn the thousands of temples that
dot the island. This stone is known locally as "paras" and is not
really stone in the Western sense. Rather paras is volcanic ash
mixed with sand and clay and compressed over the centuries into a
hard material similar to sandstone or soapstone. As such the
material is quite soft, decays easily and moss seems to grow on it
overnight - so if you are walking through a rice paddy and happen
to see an old, blackened, moss covered statue do not think it is
centuries old - it may be 5 or at the most 30 years old !
Traditionally stone has been carved into the shapes of
demons and deities to decorate temples and courtyards of royal
families - rarely does the average Balinese have any stone relief
in his living area. Stone carvers have been around a lot longer
than painters and have never been subject to the same strict rules
as painters. The imaginations of the stone carvers has always been
allowed to run riot i.e. gods with multiple sex organs and even
scenes incorporating everyday life with today's technology such as
airplanes are now carved into temple relieves.
To
get a good idea of the range of items for sale a trip through
Batubulan is a nice day spent. Whether or not you are ready to
ship a 500 lb. statue back home is up to you but almost any statue
would be focal point of your garden.
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Wood Carving Wood carving shares a
lot of similarities with stone carving inasmuch as both were used
primarily to decorate temples. You can see traditional wood
carving used to decorate the pillars and beams used to support the
roofs of temples (and lately restaurants as well). However
understanding that wood carvings are much easier to transport and
have more practical uses in home decorating it should come as no
surprise to learn that Westerners have begun to have a strong
influence on what is now being produced. Not that that is all bad.
Traditionally wood carvers have also had pretty much free reign to
experiment and many have become more sculptors than carvers with
the best wood carvers turning unusual pieces of wood that most
folks would just as soon throw away into masterpieces. However,
still the most sought after works are the traditional Ramayana
figurines.
There are many
varieties of wood used. As a general rule of thumb all things
being equal the softer the wood the faster it grows and the easier
it is to carve and hence the price is lower. Popular soft woods
are merantie, crocodile and hibiscus. Harder woods such as nangka
(jackfruit), and kampor are much heavier and can be more
intricately carved. Either way a word of caution - The wood is not
always thoroughly dry before being carved and if you take it to a
climate with less humidity it may crack. So sometimes it's better
to take the older carving that's collected its share of dust and
polish it up yourself when you get back home.
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Other - Kites
Whilst maybe not a traditional art form, in fact kites were
only recently introduced into Bali by the Japanese during their
occupation of Indonesia in World War 2, the Balinese have quickly
turned them into an art form. It is not unusual to see a group of
men struggling to put a kite 4 meters (yes, 4 meters - some of
these contraptions can be down right dangerous to passing aircraft
!) into the back of a truck to take down to the beach. In fact
there are laws against flying kites too close around the airport.
The shapes can be winged eagles or tall ships complete with main
mast and sails ! Truly a delight. And when these really big kites
are airborne the wind on the string produces a loud, hypnotic
humming sound. Serious competitions have begun to be staged with
international competitors trying their best against the Balinese.
Airworthy small versions make interesting souvenirs for young
children.
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The
Balinese seem to be the most talented of all of Indonesia gifted
artisans. Over the centuries there has been a steady steam of
immigrants introducing new ideas, coupled with the generous
patronage of Kingdoms past, Balinese artists have become justly
famous.
Indeed the
number of foreigners who have been inspired by Bali as well as the
number of Indonesians from other islands who have come to Bali to
hone their craft are testimony to the importance of Bali in the art
world.
As such
Island Wave provides a brief - very brief - overview of
traditional art forms just to acquaint and alert the casual or first
time visitor to some of the art produced on Bali and give greater
value to what otherwise would be just another curio.
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